
社交媒体上模糊的狗仔队照片显示,她身穿黑色吊带裙在街头拦出租车。她曾穿着 oversized 大衣漫步纽约街头,还涂着那抹标志性的红唇。
卡罗琳·贝塞特·肯尼迪(Carolyn Bessette Kennedy)去世近三十年后,这位33岁离世的时尚偶像再度成为焦点,被誉为最具影响力的风格标杆之一。新剧《爱情故事》记录了她与小约翰·F·肯尼迪的恋情,而众多观众也在追剧中关注她的着装风格。
在这个充斥着浮夸品牌和明显整容的时代,贝赛特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)持久的魅力恰恰源于她的不为所动。
她没有个人平台,没有品牌合作,也没有社交媒体账号。
“她和我们现在在Instagram上看到的人截然不同,”现年45岁、在凤凰城执业的律师阿什利·特拉赫尔说道,她从小就对卡罗琳·贝塞特·肯尼迪(Carolyn Bessette Kennedy)心怀仰慕。“我觉得我们一眼就能认出如今的网红,因为她们的妆容、衣着,甚至整容痕迹都很明显。但卡罗琳有种毫不费力的优雅,那种气质永远时髦又酷炫。”
特拉赫年少时在科罗拉多州拉马尔乡下翻阅《人物》杂志初识贝塞特·肯尼迪,便梦想效仿她那种低调的优雅风范。
她说:“已届中年的我仍在努力效仿她。”
沉默的影响者
《CBK:卡罗琳·贝塞特·肯尼迪的时尚人生》作者兼该节目顾问苏尼塔·库马尔·奈尔表示,贝塞特·肯尼迪鲜少接受采访,她主要通过衣着风格与外界交流。
奈尔表示:我强烈感受到她是个极其注重隐私的人,这一点从几乎找不到她公开讲话的影像资料就能看出来。
然而贝塞特·肯尼迪的影响力经久不衰。在TikTok和Instagram上,诸如@allforcarolyn和@carolynbessettepage等账号致力于记录她的衣橱穿搭。本月,她的三件外套和一条小黑裙将在The Fashion Auctioneer拍卖行进行拍卖。
贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)曾是卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)的公关人员,于1996年与肯尼迪结婚。尽管她的婆婆杰奎琳·肯尼迪·奥纳西斯(Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis)也以时尚风格闻名,但奈尔(Nair)表示:“她并未模仿杰奎琳,而是保持了自己的独特风格。”
"这并非她婚后刻意为之,而是卡罗琳一贯的着装风格——这正是我欣赏她的地方。她几乎一生都保持着这样的打扮,"她说道。这对夫妇在1999年的一场空难中不幸离世。
标志性作品
你仍可在格林尼治村的C.O. Bigelow药妆店买到贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)同款Charles J. Wahba玳瑁发箍,这里曾是她常光顾的地方。
“就是最初的那个。就是它。”34岁的亚历克·金斯伯格说道,他的家族已经营这家店铺长达四代。
“我们还有一位美容顾问记得她。她非常温柔可亲。我父亲也还记得她。”他说道。
过去几年间,金丝伯格(Ginsberg)的顾客数量持续增长——尤其是自《爱情故事》播出以来,由于人们对贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)的关注度上升,客流增加更为显著。
“不仅仅是发带,人们还想去她曾购物的地方买东西,”他说道。“女孩们会进来询问是否有人认识她,试图打探一些关于她的零星信息。”
为电视节目重塑CBK风格
作为瑞恩·墨菲不断扩展的文化回顾系列的一部分,《爱情故事》引发了争议。粉丝们看到演员们的早期试装照后,认为服装未能准确体现贝塞特·肯尼迪那种特有的内敛风格。
奈尔表示,部分批评意见让服装团队措手不及,促使他们更加注重每一处剪裁细节。
“我认为这正是卡罗琳(Carolyn)设计的服装的讽刺之处——它们看似简单,实则不然。”她说道。
前几集的故事主要发生在贝塞特·肯尼迪成名之前,她的着装风格平易近人——或是简单的黑色连衣裙,或是牛仔裤搭配基础款上衣。
特拉赫表示:\"我非常好奇这个角色的服装选择是否会随着她与肯尼迪家族的融合而改变。目前她依然保持着酷炫的90年代卡尔文·克莱恩风格,穿着吊带裙,但可能比最终形象略显青涩。\"
曾担任《Vogue》和《Teen Vogue》编辑、现为私人购物顾问的丽贝卡·雷斯尼克·吉克(Rebecca Resnick Gick)表示,贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)的影响力具有一种‘低调的特质’。她将这种风格描述为‘知性剪裁’。
她说:“她看起来高端得体,却不显浮夸。”
这种审美理念悄然塑造了当代时尚潮流。诸如The Row等品牌围绕相似的风格语言,构建出完整的审美体系。
“这种风格一直存在,”雷斯尼克·吉克说道,“那种纽约式的内敛。将男性化剪裁视为一种力量。”
经典再现,历久弥新
时尚行业观察人士指出,90年代和千禧年风格服饰近期整体呈现复兴趋势,Z世代对古着购物的热情尤为高涨。
部分原因在于时尚的周期性本质——年轻一代渴望表达自我审美,或许会将童年时期的风格视为复古、别致或怀旧。
纽约30岁的造型师丹妮尔·奥康奈尔(Danielle O'Connell)表示,在经历了多年以休闲街头风、极繁主义品牌标识和算法友好型视觉冲击为主导的时尚潮流后,部分时尚人士正重新回归精致风格。在为一位出席《爱情故事》首映礼的客户设计造型时,奥康奈尔与她在洛杉矶的搭档阿利克斯·格罗珀(Alix Gropper)很自然地以贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)的风格作为参考。
“我们想要那种静谧的奢华时刻。”奥康奈尔说道。
戴安娜王妃与拉尔夫·劳伦的时尚印记
纽约家居与时尚设计师娜塔莉·德克莱夫(Natalie Decleve)表示,贝塞特·肯尼迪(Bessette Kennedy)那种“简洁、经典、老钱风”的格调,带有与拉尔夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)相似的美国韵味。
“还是同样的语言,”德克莱夫说,“非常纯粹的90年代风格。”
德克莱夫指出,贝塞特·肯尼迪还常被比作戴安娜王妃,因为这两位女性都做到了既保持亲和力,又不失崇高风范。
在《爱情故事》中饰演贝塞特·肯尼迪的演员莎拉·皮金表示,她透过时尚外表窥见了角色真实的内心世界。
皮金表示:“她身上总带着些神秘色彩——你知道,她从未接受过采访,也没留下任何回忆录。”
皮金表示:"根据我对她的了解,她是一位极其雄心勃勃、活泼开朗、热情幽默的女性。我认为,尽管她的风格被频繁模仿,但正是这位女性穿着这些服装的方式以及她如何完美诠释它们,才使得这些照片如此经久不衰。"
底特律的艾丽西亚·兰奇里奥为本报道作出了贡献。
Grainy paparazzi shots on social media show her hailing a cab in a black slip dress. Walking the streets of New York in an oversize coat. Wearing that signature red lipstick.
Nearly three decades after her death at age 33, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy is back in the spotlight as one of fashions most powerful style influencers. The new TV series Love Story chronicles her relationship with John F. Kennedy Jr., and many fans are watching for the clothes.
In an era dominated by conspicuous branding and obvious cosmetic enhancements, Bessette Kennedys enduring appeal lies in what she did not do.
She had no platform, no brand partnerships, no social media presence.
She looks so different from the people we see now on Instagram, said Ashley Traher, a 45-year-old attorney in Phoenix who grew up admiring Bessette Kennedy from afar. I think well be able to date todays influencers immediately because of their makeup, clothes, even plastic surgery. But Carolyn had an effortlessness that always looks modern and cool.
Traher, who first encountered Bessette Kennedy as a teenager flipping through People magazine in rural Lamar, Colorado, dreamed of copying her understated elegance.
Middle-aged me is still trying to emulate her, she said.
A quiet influencer
Bessette Kennedy rarely gave interviews, communicating with the outside world mostly through her clothes, says Sunita Kumar Nair, who wrote CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy: A Life in Fashion, and consulted on the show.
I really got a sense that she was extremely private, and it shows because theres barely any footage of her speaking, Nair said.
Yet Bessette Kennedys influence has proven durable . On TikTok and Instagram, accounts such as @allforcarolyn and @carolynbessettepage are devoted to chronicling her wardrobe. Three of her coats and a little black dress are being auctioned off this month at The Fashion Auctioneer.
Bessette Kennedy, a former Calvin Klein publicist, married Kennedy in 1996. Although her mother-in-law, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis , was also famous for her style, she didnt copy Jackie. She had her own voice, Nair said.
And it wasnt something that she just deliberately did when she married John. And this is what I loved about Carolyn. Shed actually dressed like this almost throughout her life, she said. The couple died in a plane crash in 1999.
Signature pieces
You can still buy Bessette Kennedys exact Charles J. Wahba tortoise headband from C.O. Bigelow, a Greenwich Village apothecary where she shopped.
Its the original one. Thats the one, said Alec Ginsberg, 34, whose family has owned the store for four generations.
We still have one of the beauty associates who remembers her. She was super-sweet. My father remembers her as well, he said.
Ginsberg has seen more customers coming in over the past couple of years and especially since Love Story began airing because of interest in Bessette Kennedy.
Its not just the headband, its that people want to shop where she shopped, he said. Girls will come in and ask if anyone knew her. They try to find out little bits of information.
Recreating CBKs style for TV
Love Story, part of Ryan Murphys expanding slate of cultural retrospectives, sparked debate after fans who saw early test images of the actors in costume felt the clothing failed to capture Bessette Kennedys precise restraint.
Some of the criticism, Nair said, caught the wardrobe team off guard, and led them to pay more attention to every tailoring detail.
I think that is actually the irony of Carolyns clothes, that it does look simple, but its actually really not, she said.
The first few episodes mostly take place during the period before Bessette Kennedy was famous, and her wardrobe is generally approachable a simple black dress, or jeans and a basic top.
Im very interested to see if the characters clothing choices will change as she becomes more ingrained with the Kennedys, Traher said. So far shes still cool and very 90s Calvin Klein with the slip dresses, but maybe less polished than she ended up being.
Theres an undercover quality to Bessette Kennedys influence, said Rebecca Resnick Gick, a former editor at Vogue and Teen Vogue and a personal shopper. She describes the look as educated tailoring.
She looked high-end and well-fitted without being flashy, she said.
That sensibility has quietly shaped contemporary fashion . Brands like The Row have built entire aesthetics around a similar vocabulary.
Its always been there, Resnick Gick said. That New York restraint. Masculine tailoring as empowerment.
Whats old is new again
Theres also been a resurgence of interest in 90s and Y2K fashion in general, fashion industry observers say . Vintage shopping has surged among Gen Z .
Part of it is the cyclical nature of fashion younger generations wanting to express their own sensibilities, and perhaps seeing the styles of their childhoods as retro, quaint or nostalgic .
Danielle OConnell, a 30-year-old stylist in New York, said that after years dominated by casual streetwear, maximalist branding and algorithm-friendly spectacle, some fashionistas are swinging back toward polish. To dress a client attending the Love Story premiere, OConnell and her Los Angeles-based partner, Alix Gropper, naturally turned to Bessette Kennedy as a reference point.
We wanted that quiet luxury moment, OConnell said.
Shades of Princess Di and Ralph Lauren
Natalie Decleve, a New York-based homes and style designer, says Bessette Kennedys clean, classic, old-money style has an American vibe akin to Ralph Lauren .
Its that same language, Decleve said. A very clean version of the 90s.
Bessette Kennedy is also compared often to Princess Diana , Decleve noted, because both women managed to look approachable while remaining aspirational.
Actor Sarah Pidgeon, who plays Bessette Kennedy in Love Story, said she got a glimpse of the real person underneath the stylish facade.
There is a bit of mystery about her, you know she never sat down for an interview. Theres no memoir that she wrote, said Pidgeon.
But from everything Ive learned about her, she was an incredibly ambitious, vivacious, warm, funny woman, said Pidgeon. And I think that while her style is replicated so often, there is something about the woman who wore the clothes, and how she embodied them, that makes those photos so enduring.
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Alicia Rancilio in Detroit contributed to this report.网上配资公司
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